Friday, November 6, 2009

Fly on the Wall: Chef Certification

Today I worked in the kitchen while a chef cooked for judges in the hopes of being awarded a chef's certification. I'm not sure what level he was seeking. I'm also not sure if he passed.

I arrived at 7am and the competing chef was organizing and setting up. I'm not sure when he received his mystery basket and created a menu from it. I tried to glance at the menu once I realized it was there and was lightly scolded for hovering over the judges table. Oops! Busted. BWOOP!

One of the judges and Master Chef didn't arrive until later into the session. I guess he wasn't as concerned with the intial prep.

I did taste the first course, a lobster rice dish. There was great flavor in it, although too salty. The rice however wasn't finished cooking and a bit crunchy. Some kitchen buds complained the lobster meat was chewy. Duh! It's the tail!

Next was a salad, presented in a flax seed crust that was baked over a tin-foiled can, interesting and simple approach. The salad itself looked nice but was seemingly thrown onto the plate versus presenting it in a more structured manner. The salad dressing was also very mustardy.

Last was a chicken dish with some roasted root vegetables. I watched the inspiring chef chop several beets, but he must not have liked his dice cuts because they were quickly tossed into the garbage pile. I didn't taste any of that course.

While my assessment of the activity isn't very exciting, to me attending and seeing the judges writing notes here and there was enlightening. I know when I get to that level I'll better understand what to expect.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Iced tea requires ice!! and timely refills!!

Originally posted: July 13, 2007

I grew up in the South. Southerners drink iced tea because it’s hot. Iced tea IS the water of the South.

As a result this is a beverage staple in restaurants here. However I am constantly amazed how poorly wait staff treat iced tea glass maintenance. Water glasses seem to fill by themselves, but iced tea is overlooked. One cannot live on bread alone!!

ATTENTION WAIT STAFF: If the glass is half full… FILL IT UP. If there’s no ice in the glass… PUT ICE IN IT. It’s called ICED tea for a reason!! Lemon would be nice too.

Foodie Books

originally posted September 23, 2009

As with any genre, there are oodles of interesting books to read in the subject. Here’s some I’ve read and enjoyed. Do you have recommendations?


The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Toward Perfection by Michael Ruhlman 4.75 of 5 Bwoops! This has to be one of my favorite foodie books! It also is likely one of the most influential in my life. I proceeded to take a boot camp at CIA, Hyde Park the next month after reading it and then enrolled in culinary school a few months after that. I’m sure my parents had no idea when they gave it to me what a ball of yarn it would unravel and as quickly as it did. (Maybe I don’t give them enough credit however.)


It’s actually three stories in one, each unique and each entertaining. The first is the journey of a wannabe master chef seeking certification. The testing is grueling and only one or two chefs in a group of ten ultimately receive certification, after paying $10,000 to take the ten day exam. I found this section riveting!


The second story is of Michael Symon of Cleveland’s Lola Bistro. (If I were on Iron Chef… this is who I’d pick!) His style is quite different than that of the third and final story, self-taught chef Michael Keller of Napa Valley’s legendary French Laundry. While these stories weren’t quite as page-turning as the first, there were valid points to be made from reading them and overall I could read each page over and over and over. My husband got mad at me for ignoring him because I couldn’t put the book down. In particular, there’s a scene with Thomas Keller and REALLY FRESH meat that continually appears in my memories.


Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise by Ruth Reichl 4 of 5 Bwoops! This book is hilarious! The lengths that Ms. Reichl goes through to disguise herself in order to receive a true restaurant review without recognition are unbelievable. That’s a passion for your job! She’s similar to a kid at Halloween, planning the costume and fully engaging to play the part.


The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry: Love, Laughter, and Tears at the World’s Most Famous Cooking School by Kathleen Flinn 3.75 of 5 Bwoops! This book is as much personal conquest as it is foodie. That doesn’t mean it lacks entertainment, but I might qualify it as more of a chick read.


My Life in France by Julia Child 4.25 of 5 Bwoops! I was also greatly influenced by this book once I found out Julia was 40+ when her career really hit its stride. There’s hope for me yet! This is partially the basis for the movie Julie and Julia, but there are some parts editted. Julia has a life many of us envy- I sure do! I’d kill to live in France as she did and travel back to Cambridge, MA to retire. (I used to live in Boston so Cambridge would be fine with me!) If the genre isn’t your fruit de mer however, you likely won’t find this book as entertaining as some others.


Julie & Julia by Julie Powell 4 of 5 Bwoops! The second half of the movie that takes its name, this book triggered laughter, tears, anger and I’m not sure how many other emotions. It too was influential in that Julie Powell was stuck at a job of no interest to her, yet compelled by her mother to stay away from pursuing her passions for more practical path. I can easily say I’ve been there! I tried practical for 20+ years in the workforce and every year it became more and more difficult to put up with it. Thank goodness my husband encouraged me to pursue my dream! (It will be interesting to read this in three to four years after school is over. It’s got to be better than corporate America!! I can’t imagine what could be worse!)


The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food by Judith Jones 3.5 of 5 Bwoops! Judith Jones was Julia Child’s editor and as with any professional her career didn’t rotate around only one person. This book chronicles her career. Lucky dog she was! My husband recently read the book and found it entertaining so my initial thought that you’d have to be a true foodie to get enjoyment from it may be exaggerated.

What's the best Atlanta pizza?

originally posted September 6, 2009

I saw my old post on which is better Grant Central or Grant Central East. Since making that post, numerous new pizza places have opened. All with really good pizza.

Max’s downtown has coal oven pizza and it’s good! The $1 gelato cones are Dalliscious too!

Stella on Memorial has really yummy whole wheat crust and excellent pepperoni. (Their sister, Osteria, in VA Highlands is good too, but it’s not the same whole wheat crust.)

I found Varasano’s on Peachtree (yeah, I know I’m writing about Buckhead, not really iITP, INTOWN inside the perimeter, but I had to try it after hearing about the owner, an international rubix cube champ, breaking numerous home ovens attempting to perfect his crust recipe) to be a good contender for Fritti. However, I’m giving Fritti the upper crust-- nice pizza pun. The toppings are better. Plus, their pizza guy is really from Italy and serves limoncello to guests without understanding English.

Chef really are nice folk!

originally posted August 20, 2009

I’ve been lucky to have so many recent opportunities to meet several well-known and not so well-known chefs this year. Many kitchen-outsiders who are only exposed to the cooking worlds of network television see “Top Chef,” “Chopped,” and “Hell’s Kitchen” see only the unpleasant side of many chef personalities (and I’m guessing sensationalized).

Guess what? That’s really not what chefs are like- even the ones on those shows. They are nice people, interested in your aspirations, funny, and easy with which to converse. They’re NORMAL.

My first exposure was at the Culinary Institute of Art in Hyde Park, NY where I participated in a week long boot camp. I walked into the building where my class was to meet. Everyone in the class had on their chef coats. I didn’t own a chef coat so obviously wasn’t wearing one. Youser! An out of place moment.

The participants were grouped and I was directed to a new classroom. In route I heard “Yes, Chef!” as I passed some students already at work in the kitchen. My fear of the unknown grew inside me. I was getting more and more nervous that an entire week of BOOT CAMP meant I would circle the campus 3 times while carrying a 14″ cast iron frying pan above my head, likely a punishment for conducting some type of kitchen faux pas.

My class/chef instructor was friendly and knowledgeable. He taught us much culinary knowledge in the week I attended CIA. At the moment I saw him running across the kitchen I knew instantly I was not to be pre-cooking my ravioli stuffing. Here comes my lap around campus with the frying pan. Luckily, that didn't happen. I was merely corrected and redirected. My ravioli was then the subject of class praise for it produced a dalliscious and beautiful dish. Thanks Chef Ainsworth!

My second exposure included prepping food for an 80-guest chef-hosted event. The recipes were selected by the chef and she provided insight on shopping for and preparating the dishes. I worked with a team of several culinary professionals all day creating sauces, slicing and dicing. At many steps we wondered if we were appropriately following the directions, browning to the correct level, etc. No one knew what to expect once the chef arrived. Once she did, it was nearly all praise. Where there was criticism it was well communicated, not harshly spat in our faces. The event was a great success and I left feeling very appreciative I was able to work with such a lovely person. I thought “they can’t all be so poised.” Thanks Corinne!

I’ve also worked in commercial kitchens where the Executive Chef has bent over backwards to make my work as simple as possible, offering ingredients, equipment and services. Working with such generous people makes the day go by like a dream. Thanks Chef Bowen!

The chefs with which I’ve worked have also been very appreciative of the work I provide. During events they thank me for my service and usually provide me with some type of takeaway. My culinary mates tell me to get ready however- they aren’t all like that at school. I’m ready… bring it on!

Best grits challenge!!!

originally posted September 4, 2007, updated October 3, 2009

I’ve tried several iITP establishments in search of Best Grits. Contenders include Thumbs Up, Highland Bakery, and Stone Soup. (Worst include West Egg. Stop trying to be fancy; it’s NOT working.) Where have you eaten your favorite grits?

Ria’s Blue Bird has runner-up-worthy grits, but these are white. White is not my color of choice since its not guaranteed that these are made from the natural state of the corn. Yellow grits are made from unhulled corn; white grits can be made from hulled corn. (White hominy grits are the staple at places like the Waffle House. Hominy grits can be made from corn soaked in lye to remove the hull and the outer germ. MMMmmm! That sounds delicious… lye!) This is why I tend to like some yellow in my grits. However, it should be noted there are many reputable restaurants that use premium white grits made from white corn, like South City Kitchen.

What makes good grits? I like course grit pieces, like biting an actual corn kernel. They need to cook up creamy, by themselves, not that cream and/or cheese are insipid additions-- quite to the contrary!! Grits need to be hot and without lumps.

Favorite brands? Anson Mills in South Carolina is marketed as the king of grits. They appear on menus across Atlanta. The Lee Brothers (www.boiledpeanuts.com) promote Guilford stone ground grits. Can’t say I’ve tried them. There’s a Georgia brand, Logan Turnpike, sold at the Dekalb Farmer’s market and Whole Foods (where at opening had an extremely poor grits selection). A strong national premium brand seems to be Bob’s, but these are also labeled polenta. That doesn’t seem Southern and thus ungrit-centric to me. Carolina Plantation grits need to be soaked overnight. I haven't yet tried this to test them against the others.

The interesting observation is that our local restaurants are not promoting Logan Turnpike’s in-state product. Is that because Logan Turnpike’s grits are inferior to our neighboring state’s grits or are we observing the power of marketing? (I need to get some Anson Mills and cook them at home.)

Sorry- that was a long winded way of saying I LUV GRITS and what iITP (that's INTOWN inside the perimeter) establishment in your opinion has the best grits??

Steak and Tofu?

originally posted August 19, 2007

My sibling refuses to eat eggs. Not because of an allergy or other health reason, but solely due to the taste and texture. He’ll stop eating items after finding out they contain eggs, for example pasta carbonara. He loved this pasta yumminess and then saw the dish in production and since has refused another bite.

As a result Sibling sometimes has difficulty with the brunch items. He craves the steak, but no way will consider an egg cradled next to it. He orders steak and tofu. Tofu isn’t just for vegans any more.